Window?

Basic Repairs and Fixes.

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foxtrot_BLT
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Window?

Post by foxtrot_BLT » Tue May 22, 2007 1:41 pm

So My driverrs side window on my 89 BLT was rolled down to far i geusss and the whatever is hooked to the windo motor poped off the window so the motor still works but the glass stays. So sorry for my lamen talk but i need help any cheap fixes?? thanks
1989 Buick Lesabre T-Type- Automatic- Leather interior- Is gray now- Soon to be WHITE!. Major Repairs happening- Pics to come

Z
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Post by Z » Tue May 22, 2007 2:16 pm

I can definitely help with this one. The fix is very cheap because you can do it yourself, except maybe for the end. I'll get to that.

First and most obvious, the door panel needs to come off. If you don't know how to do that, let me know and I'll get pics tomorrow when I take the panel off my black one. You'll need a large phillips screwdriver, a small phillips, and a torx driver of the correct size (I don't know the size by heart).

Anyway, once the panel is off, there's probably a sheet of plastic covering the guts of the door. It's just going to be stuck there somehow so just tape it back up later with masking tape. There should be a triangular piece of metal covering the hole you need to get through to access the window mechanism. It'll be riveted in if hasn't been messed with already, so drill the rivets out. You'll now have you access hole. You'll see a metal track going diagonally. Make sure the window is all the way down (you'll know obviously when the motor stops running when you've held the down button long enough), then push Up and you'll see a small box rise up along the track. Stop it in the middle. This is where you'll need another person.

You'll have to find a way to push the actual glass up yourself and have someone else hold it there. There's no easy way to do that yourself. On the bottom of the window will be a clamp of sorts with a spherical hole in the side facing you. On the window track, on the little box, is the corresponding sphere that fits into it. Push it in. It'll be hard at first but just force it-it'll go in.

That should do the trick. I've had to do that 3 times on two different cars so I know my way around these doors. I'm doing it all by memory so just ask if there's any confusion. Other people may be able to be more specific, but the process is simple once you SEE everything you have to do.

Again, I'm being as detailed as I can because I'm assuming you've never been inside one of these doors before, so I hope I didn't insult your intelligence.

Good luck and let us know if you get it done.

Whitelion-89-T
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Post by Whitelion-89-T » Tue May 22, 2007 8:54 pm

I know this should be on the Maintenance page but OK,on my-DS-window the metal ball is popped out off the track plus I need the back window guide. Hey Z, guess I need to do the same to get at the metal ball!." Alaska-BLT Quote" I used an awl or centerpunch tool and centred it on the back of the ball, it rests in that dimple quite nicely. With it centred just above the hole, whack it once with a mallet." It should pop back in as long as its not cracked.
I wonder if that could be why the metal ball was popped out with no back window guide to keep it in place :roll:

PS- IF you do have pics I would love to see them. I'm still waiting for my "89 Lesabre Body Service Manual" I should have that this week.
Thanks 8-)
Last edited by Whitelion-89-T on Sun May 27, 2007 8:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Image 1989 BLT Well maintained second owner with 113-K Miles. Fully-loaded, ABS, NICE leather, STB,Walker muffler & Custom-Duels, 2-1/2" tips, No Cat, STRONG Runner.
1988 Chev-Corsica from original owner.
1990 Aerostar Eddie 72-K Miles 4.0L,E-AWD.
http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p211/Whitelion_6/[/img]

foxtrot_BLT
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Thanx`

Post by foxtrot_BLT » Wed May 23, 2007 2:43 am

That description was right up my alley thanx alot, that what i figured i had to do it seemd easy buit when i tried taking off the door, the top of the pannel is stayin on the door should i just stick a flat headx in the top and start popping it off??
1989 Buick Lesabre T-Type- Automatic- Leather interior- Is gray now- Soon to be WHITE!. Major Repairs happening- Pics to come

Z
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Post by Z » Wed May 23, 2007 4:57 am

Whitelion-Yes you will need to do the same since it's the same problem as foxtrot_BLT as far as I can tell.

Here's a lengthy tutorial on taking apart these door panels and/or, popping your window back into place.

foxtrot_BLT-I took these pictures of the passenger door only because I needed to take it off anyway. I hope it doesn't cause any confusion.

First, you'll need to take off the plastic piece opposite the mirror on the door. Only held in by one screw. Just as a warning, this could be any type of screw because if the panel has come off before, the original screw may have been lost and replaced.
Image

Next, pull up on the ends of the plastic piece holding the seatbelt in place. Be careful.
Image

It will release to reveal two screws that will undo the plastic piece underneath the first.
Image

Now, go to the front of the armrest and take a small flat head screwdriver and press diagonally into the slot in front of the ashtray. That will come out easily and then disconnect the power window buttons. (be careful, once more) **If you have power mirrors, you will find a very small allen head screw holding the joystick for the mirrors in place. Just unscrew it and it'll slide out.**
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Now you will see a screw at the front/inside of the armrest. Remove it. **You may or may not have a screw to remove at the opposite end of the armrest above the reflector. Check for this before you take the armrest off the door panel.**
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Remove the armrest and you will see several large phillips head screws. Remove all of those.
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Now head to the underside of the plastic panels on the door and remove the 6 or 7 screws holding the bottoms of those panels in place.
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I know I'm jumping around, but it's to help keep the door panel stable so it doesn't become loose and break something. In this step, pull the ends of the door pull handle out to reveal one screw on each end. These should be the same type of screw that were under the armrest.
Image

Now you should find a torx screw behind the door handle. Undo it, and to take the black plastic piece off the door, twist upward and pull/move downward.
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Detach the door lock buttons. **When putting this piece back together when reinstalling the door panel, be careful that you line up the door lock indicator is lined up with the bar behind that piece so that the indicator moves when you lock/unlock the doors.**
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At this point you can remove the front plastic piece at the bottom of the panel. It'll take some maneuvering, but it isn't difficult to remove.
Image

Now start popping off the yellow pushpins. I suggest starting with the ones at the bottom of the door so the panel doesn't fall on top of you.
Image

When you're ready to remove the panel, maneuver the seatbelt through the slot at the top of the panel.
Image

...and you're left with this mess. There's supposed to be a sheet of plastic covering all of that, but mine's conspicuously absent. Make sure to tape it back up when you put the door back together.
Image

At the center of the door you'll find a triangular piece of metal held with rivets. Drill those out. Mine was also missing when I took this picture but this is the hole you're left with.
Image

Inside you'll see the metal track I mentioned in my first post. At this point, have someone help you. You'll need to push the actual glass up through the door yourself, and then have someone hold the glass. Make sure the window motor has been run all the way with the Down switch, then once you have the bottom of the glass in your sights through this hole in the door, press Window Up until you see a little black clamp rise up. This will have a little sphere on the end that pops right into the corresponding hole. This little hole is located in a small plastic slide in a greased track at the bottom of the window, NOT the piece of metal hanging below the window. I suggest squeezing these two together, not smacking them, just because it's fragile stuff when you get right down to it. It make take a bit of muscle, but it's better than risking breaking something. After it's joined together, make sure the glass is straight and test it out. You should be all set.
Image


Like I said, I hope me doing this on the passenger door didn't confuse you foxtrot_BLT. It's all a mirror image anyway.

If ANYTHING is unclear, PLEASE ask.
Last edited by Z on Sat Mar 29, 2008 3:24 am, edited 1 time in total.

foxtrot_BLT
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Thanx

Post by foxtrot_BLT » Wed May 23, 2007 5:26 am

Those Pics are great, couldnt ask for anything better. thanx alot now i can stick my sirius radio back in it and not worry bout it getting swiped. thnx alot.


:D :D :D :D :D :D
This site is sweeeeeeeettttt
1989 Buick Lesabre T-Type- Automatic- Leather interior- Is gray now- Soon to be WHITE!. Major Repairs happening- Pics to come

Whitelion-89-T
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Post by Whitelion-89-T » Wed May 23, 2007 3:10 pm

Welcome Foxtrot_BLT to the BLT forum, The best place to be in when you own a Lesabre T-type. The power windows on the BLT are a pain in the butt for a lot of owners lol :D

Hey Z,
The pics are all very good and makes this job a bit easier. On my window when I press the down button it starts to go down but drops half way down. So I may try putting on the back guide to see if it just needs to be lined up?

Thanks 8-)
Last edited by Whitelion-89-T on Wed May 23, 2007 4:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Image 1989 BLT Well maintained second owner with 113-K Miles. Fully-loaded, ABS, NICE leather, STB,Walker muffler & Custom-Duels, 2-1/2" tips, No Cat, STRONG Runner.
1988 Chev-Corsica from original owner.
1990 Aerostar Eddie 72-K Miles 4.0L,E-AWD.
http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p211/Whitelion_6/[/img]

88T-FL
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Post by 88T-FL » Wed May 23, 2007 4:41 pm

Hello Z,
Great job; absolutely terrific. Only thing I would add concerns the little plastic thingies (technical term) that are pressed in to hold the door panel to the door. You can see in one of your photos that there is duct tape holding one on as the panel was torn when it was removed in the past. A very easy thing to rip. I used a small pry bar to gently work each one out. Mark (Aggie) actually made a small tool do it. Your pictures and great write up will prod others to take a shot at fixing their inoperative windows or the ever popular dog-slow window closing thing.

Again Man, thanks - Peter

Here are the directions from the 1989 Buick Body Service manual.
Image

Image

Image
88 BLT, 89 BLT, 89 BLT (Sold and missed), 86 LGN, 86LGN

88T-FL
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Post by 88T-FL » Sun May 27, 2007 6:32 pm

Hello,
Saw this on www.turbobuick.com - you can buy that tool at PepBoys. Go here and scrool down the post:
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/genera ... stion.html
Thanks - Peter
88 BLT, 89 BLT, 89 BLT (Sold and missed), 86 LGN, 86LGN

GSXMEN
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Post by GSXMEN » Sun May 27, 2007 8:58 pm

Excellent detailed info guys!!

Of course I've already done both doors in the past. :P Sadly, I'll be in there again some time.

I would highly recommend checking both the door handles for good movement of the door button. You want to make sure there's no binding caused by rust.

Also, the other two troublesome items in there are the window regulators and the door latch.

You'll need to dril out the 1/4" rivets to get to the latch....no biggie. Either use bolts/nuts or just put another 1/4" rivet back in.

Good time to examine the structural integrity of your armrest mounting points as well. You might need to do a little re-engineering to make it all sturdy again. Let's face it......finding solid armrests are not easy(or cheap).
Scott

88 LeSabre T-Type
Image

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